I guess I’ll finally put something here for those of you who took the time to click. I’m an engineer living on the coast of Florida. My job consists of sitting in a cube for long hours. I’m sure you have gathered that I have a multitude of hobbies which include, but are not limited to, tool restoration, automotive repair, astronomy, woodworking, metalworking, antique radio repair, electronics, computers, medieval siege engine design and usage, tool collection, and probably a couple others I can’t think of. It would also probably help you to know that I’m sarcastic in my writings if you haven’t picked that up yet.

Ideally, I try to get a post up every week but that doesn’t always happen depending on what all I have going on.

Please take a time to leave a comment. I have no idea who reads the stuff I write otherwise. Since these are my hobbies, I have no formal training or decades of work experience. I post of what I’ve learned so far and what seems to work for me.

If you’d like to send me pictures or videos please send them to somanyhobbiesblog@gmail.com. Thanks!


24 Responses to About

  1. Mike Taylor says:

    Your blog is really useful. Glad I found it.
    I like the fact that you have perfectly focused and meaningful photos along with your explanation.
    I found your blog because I was looking for a solution to my own restoration problem. I have a GE 1/4hp ac motor that I want to use for a bench grinder. It needs to be opened up and cleaned but after removing the 4 bolts I’m at a loss as to what to do next. There is no notches for a screwdriver to open up the shell. I just can’t see how it is possible to open now that I’ve removed the only bolts. Ideas?
    I’d really like your input on this.

    • davidjbod says:

      Thanks for the positive comments! Sometimes the end bells can be stuck on pretty well. The first thing I’d recommend is putting some kind of penetrant where the bell to housing seam is and letting it soak in. Do this a couple of times and let it sit overnight. If the diameter of the end bells is a little more than the body, use a block of wood and a hammer to go around the edge. You can also try inserting something, such as a long bolt, through one of the bolt holes but instead of coming out the other side offset the end of the bolt a little bit so that it rests on the inside of the end bell. You can then tap on the end in your hand to try to loosen it up. Don’t hammer hard too hard though or something might break. Try this through each bolt hole. Insert tap a couple times and then move to the next hole. Keep working around to see if it’ll come loose. You might also want to check out a forum at http://www.owwm.org. It’s a forum 100% dedicated to restoring old tools. There are lots of helpful people and good information there.
      Good Luck!

    • Christine Scott says:

      I have a real old hand crank tool that I can’t seem to find or figure out what it is…can I send you or post a video of it?

  2. Tristan says:

    Hi mate, great blog! I’ll be following your upcoming blogs with interest. Being a fan diy work and woodwork its very interesting to see what you have to say

    Tristan – @buildmaintain

  3. Greetings from Hungary….good blog!

  4. schwitters57 says:

    Hi, I’m enjoying reading through your blog. How long were the time exposures that captured the satellite photos? Very cool. I have a telescope, a newtonian 6″, but it’s a pain to focus, though great when you finally do! LOve the radios as well. I had an old emerson that sold on ebay for almost 300. The radios have so much character & they are so beautiful. I also have an old wooden stand up radio case only. I’m a sucker for wood. My thought was to refurbish the case and install some modern works inside, but it’s still sitting in the basement.
    All the Best

    • davidjbod says:

      Hey. The exposures are usually in the 10-30 second range depending on how much ambient light there is. I’ve got an 8″ dob that I enjoy using. Sorry about your focus problem with it. If it is stiff you might try greasing it. I had to fiddle with mine some before it worked well. I like the look of old radios as well. It’s hard to imagine when all the consumer electrocis had wood in them. Thanks for the comments!

  5. Craig says:

    Hi, I’ve been regularly reading your blog for a few months now and have to say that I dig it. I guess you don’t really know when your writing it if anyone is reading it & finding it useful, but I definitely am. I found it when looking for info on tool restoration of one sort or another. Good stuff – keep it up. Craig from NJ.

    • davidjbod says:

      Thanks for taking the time to comment. You’re correct. I can see what pages have been viewed but if they found the content interesting or not I have no idea. Glad to know folks enjoy my posts! Thanks again.

  6. Dale Brinkley says:

    I have a Craftsman band saw(103.0103) like the one in the UTube video. It is is very good condition, but when I got it it didn’t have a drive pulley or motor. I am having difficulty finding info on how the drive pulley is connected to the shaft and what size pulley is required. I found info elsewhere that the drive pulley should be 10″. Yours is much smaller. Also, the shaft in mine is only keyed on one end. How is the shaft secured. The drive wheel is keyed, but has no means to keep it from working off the shaft. Any help would be appreciated. I really want to get it usable.

    • davidjbod says:

      The shaft from your motor should be cylindrical with a square portion cut out along the length of it. This cut out part is called the “keyway.” Likewise, your pulley should also have a square section missing from the hole in the middle. A short square piece of metal called a “key” fits into these cutouts to keep the pulley from spining on the shaft. A set screw in the pulley is used to keep the pulley from coming off the end of the shaft. The set screw pushes down on the key when it is tightened. The pulley on the lower wheel of the bandsaw is held on the same way.

      The size of the pulleys on the bandsaw depends on the rpm that the motor rotates at and the speed you want the blade to move at. Usually, you want the bandsaw wheel rotating at a slower speed than the motor does. Hence the motor has a smaller pulley than the pulley on the bottom wheel. For wood you want a blade speed of around 3000 ft per second. My bandsaw has a 1750 rpm motor, 2″ diameter motor pulley, and 4.25″ diameter wheel pulley which results in a blade speed of around 2600 ft per minute.

      If you’d like to do some math you can figure out the blade speed of your bandsaw with the following equation I came up with for you.


      Where RPM is the speed of your motor in revolutions per minute. dmp is the diameter of the motor pulley in inches. dwp is the diameter of the pulley on the bottom wheel. Vb is the speed of the blade in feet per minute. (Note that this equation only works with a 12″ diameter bandsaw as the wheel diameter cancels out against a correction factor to make the units come out like I want.)

      If you have any other questions or I was unclear above, please let me know. I can also grab pictures of how it all fits together if you want.


  7. julie d says:

    Hi David, I have a 1940s 12″ Craftsman bandsaw just like yours and was curious if you have any idea what it’s worth? I am looking to sell it. It does work and the exterior is in pretty good condition considering it’s age. Any info would be helpful! Thanks.

  8. gary says:

    Just found your blog site today(when looking for a generator for my Ideal Electric Tach)–
    I have to tell you, I haven’t seen someone as accomplished as you with woodworking tools(and their use), old tool restoration, and just generally McGiverish–I like to think of myself as the same way—you do nice work!
    Which coast of Fl are you on?
    I live in Alva-SW Fla

  9. Patrick W. says:

    I just found your blog when I was looking for information on a Dake 00 arbor press I just restored. I really enjoyed going through your archives and reading about your projects. I’m amazed how many you’ve done and how well they turned out. Your attention to detail is impressive. I just subscribed to your blog and can’t wait to see more.

    P.S. I was also happy to see that I’m not the only one tearing things apart and fixing them so they keep going for years longer than they were designed to last. It’s a refreshing change. Thanks

  10. Duane says:

    As the new owner of David White 8300 transit, I’m pretty awed by your courage and resourcefulness in tackling the one you bought. The crosshairs in mine are intact, but I’m considering installing a glass reticle with etched crosshairs and stadia (it’s the stadia I really want). I’ve been told a glass reticle (DW evidently introduced them in the 1980s) can be retrofitted, but that the eyepiece cam screw has to be relocated in order to focus on the crosshairs. Looking at the photos you posted, I see two screws that appear to allow focusing of the eyepiece, but I can’t imagine relocating them. I’m working up the nerve to remove the eyepiece and see what that’s about, so thought I’d ask someone who’s been inside one of these already: do the two screws at the back (top and bottom) hold it in? I’m guessing that the black ring you glued the Kevlar wires to has been replaced with one that holds a glass reticle. Or perhaps the glass sits in front of it, which is why the focus mechanism has to be altered. If that’s the case, then I’d think a person could machine their own ring for the glass, so that the etched surface is located the same distance from the objective lens as the crossairs. Perhaps that would be easier than relocating the cam screw? Do you recall roughly the diamter of the ring that holds the crosshairs? Or perhaps the diameter of the opening (which I’m guessing defines the area of view)?

    Have you had a chance to use the transit at all?

    • davidjbod says:

      I’m glad you enjoyed the post. I think a glass reticle with stadia would be nice. I wouldn’t mind one of those myself. I don’t recall exactly, but I think you’re correct about the two back screws holding the eyepiece in. They press on the eyepiece tube holding it in. Remove them and the eyepiece should come out out. Yes, the black ring with the kevlar is where the etched glass reticle would go. As opposed to modifying the eyepiece, I’d think it would be easier to have a ring machined that the reticle could sit in maintaining the stock position of the focal plane. I think the ring was around 1″ in diameter but it may have been a little bigger. I think the hole in it was around 3/8″-1/2″ in diameter. I never took an exact measurement of either.

      Another idea, if you went with the reticle on top of the current ring, would be to insert a spacer between the eyepiece and the body of the transit. That should give you the same affect as repositioning the cam screws. The screws that held the eyepiece in should still function fine holding the eyepiece in.

      I’ve used the transit some around my backyard, which is what I bought it for. Of course, I still haven’t shot my entire backyard to do some drainage work like I’d originally planned.

      Good luck with yours. Let me know if I can be of any more assistance.


  11. Nate says:

    bumped into your blog after searching for pictures on how gear transmissions work. Your pictures have great lighting and details, and your green boxes and arrows were a great help! Enjoyed reading about you other projects too.

  12. Christine Scott says:

    I have a real old hand crank tool that I can’t seem to find or figure out what it is…can I send you or post a video of it?

  13. Brent says:

    Just stumbled upon your blog here and wanted to say it’s really excellent. All the great detail and explanations of the process is really outstanding. Thanks so much for taking the time and showing off all your great skills. I especially enjoy all the tool saving you do, all those old tools deserve long lives and usually it doesn’t take much to keep them going even after someone’s discarded them. I’ll be checking back for sure!

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