I’d previously tested the control system on the Hardinge by directly hooking it to a 240V receptacle but now I’m up to the point of needing a more permanent solution. I thought about it some and decided that feeding the control system independently of the motor power was the best option. So, I took the two non-generated hot lines from the breaker box and hooked them up to what was labeled as the hot and neutral lines for the controls.
The hot leg in the diagram would have had 240V so using my two 120V lines provides the same voltage potential to the control system. This new hot leg (former neutral) could cause problems though because it isn’t fused. So, I put a fuse in line to match the one on the hot line.
I removed the fuse holder and replaced it with a more common style. Surprisingly, the holes matched up. There are three more of the Euro style fuses which power the coolant pump but I don’t plan to use it.
I decided to take a look into the coolant tank though and it was a bit messy. It cleaned up pretty well though and there were no rust holes. I did all this a couple months ago but the project was put on hold while I was trying to find a tool post. Happily, Gill messaged me one night to say that his father had randomly found a tool post and sent it to him. So, I was able to get a new import tool post pretty cheaply. I fit the post to the compound and prepared to take my first cut! I put some aluminum in the collet, locked it down, and then proceeded to just push the aluminum in some. After some fiddling with the collect locking mechanism I got it to hold correctly and proceeded to make some nice chips! Well, strings. Finally! Now I need to get some carbide insert tool holders for it. Here’s a video of the first cut using the power feed.
I’m almost done with the Hardinge. The only thing I have left to do is replace the bronze nut in the tail stock.