F Roller Brackets

Chris asked me to make a couple brackets for some doors he’s making.  He’s building some barn doors that will slide on a track above the door.  The brackets he wanted made will sit, mounted on the wall, near the bottom of the door.  The brackets will be made out of aluminum and use a ball bearing for the door to roll against.

Here’s the drawing I made for the brackets. Two wood screws will be used to attach the bracket to the wall and will go through the countersunk holes.  The ball bearing will be held in by a machine screw that threads into the blind hole located in the top horizontal section.

F0

I started off with some 1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 2″ blocks that I cut with the power hacksaw.

F1

Then it was over to the mill where I faced the top edges and started to hog out the area in front of the screw holes.  I clamped both pieces in the mill at the same time to get the work done faster.

F2

I used my height gauge to lay out lines on the parts by adjusting it to the required height and scoring the parts.  Of course I did this for the line I worked to above, but didn’t do the others lines for some reason.  Thus, I to unclamp the parts, mark them, and put them back in the vise which wasted time.  Since I don’t require high precision I just cut to these lines on the mill.

F3

I used a long end mill and took multiple passes to remove the material where the bearing will go.  I was a little cautious on the depth of my passes since I’m not very familiar with my mill yet.

F4

Next, I started locating and creating the countersunk holes.  I used my center drill to cut the countersunk holes.  I flipped over a wood screw and used it to determine the depth of the drilling.  Once it fit, the other holes were quickly drilled to the same depth.

F5

Once the countersunk holes were drilled, it was a simple matter to swap to the appropriate sized drill bit and drill through.

F6

The next step was to drill the holes for the machine screw that will hold the bearings in.  I found the required drill size for the machine screw threads and drilled through the upper section and into the lower being sure not to go through it.  Then, I swapped to the clearance drill and drilled the upper holes again.  (Upper and lower according to the pic below.)

F7

I got a tap and used it to cut threads into the lower section.  The oversized holes in the top sections worked well to guide the tap.

F8

 

Finally, I flipped the part over and milled the back side to size.  I’d left it oversized to make the parts easier to grab with the vise.F9

At that point I was done with the mill and headed over to the lathe to make a couple spacers to fit between the machine screws and the bearing’s inner race.  Finally, I broke all the edges with a file, smoothed the sides with some 600 grit sand paper, and assembled them.  The first project with the mill was a success.

F10

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3 Responses to F Roller Brackets

  1. Alan Frost says:

    Nice job as always. Could n’t find picture of FW with depth stop-must be on my old computer,now gone. but had a brainwave . here is a link to Old Bikers workshop. he has a batterred FW which looks as if it might have the depth stop.
    His site has a lot of fine workmanship of interest and years ago we swapped a few emails. he’s quite a helpful guy and if depth stop is there he’d probably send you details.

    http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/remark/pages/workshop/mills.html

    Regards Alan

    • davidjbod says:

      Alan,
      Thanks for the link! Yeah, it looks like he does have the depth stop. I’ll shoot him an email in a few. I checked out some of his projects and he does do some very nice work. Hopefully he can provide some good pics of the depth stop and I can make my own.

      David

      • davidjbod says:

        He replied quickly but has sold his machine due to moving. He was able to provide a picture of the depth stop and some info on how it worked.

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