Rockwell Worm Drive Circular Saw: Part 2

I hadn’t planned on replacing any bearings in this saw, but the rear one was sticking out and I have a few spare bearings sitting around.  So, here I am pulling the bearing.  I then used a appropriately sized socket and a hammer to drive the new bearing into place.


With this done I decided some paint would freshen the saw up.  I sanded the body of the saw to knock off the loose paint and scuff up the surface.  I masked off the labels and anything I didn’t want to get painted.  I pulled the handle apart to mask off the switch and cord.  I’m pretty sure I wasn’t the first person to pull the handle apart as one of the wires was squished.


I wiped everything down with paint thinner and then hit everything with a coat of spray paint.  How do you like my fancy drying rack?  Note the use of a glove to protect the armature.


Here’s the rear of the saw after the paint has dried.  There was a mismatch of screws holding the handle together so I took a trip to the store and picked up some new ones.  The screws were 8-32 but I ended up using M4 washers because they smaller than the standard washers.  These washers fit in the recesses in the handle and were much closer to what I believe was stock based off some of the screws I removed.


Here’s another shot of the painted parts.  I’ve removed the tape I placed over the sticker.  I probably should have removed the sticker since it was torn up but decided to keep it.  I’m sure a saw without a warning sticker would just excite a lawyer.


Putting the saw back together is just the reverse of taking it apart which I covered in Part 1.  Here I’ve reinstalled the screws and bolt that hold the two primary sections of the saw together.


Then the upper and lower guards are reinstalled.



Once the saw was reassembled I added the worm drive lubricant.  Supposedly, the lubricant is close to gear oil but this contains anti-foaming compounds.  The lubricant can be found online (and in stores too I’m sure) for around $8 and you don’t need it all to fill up the reservoir.


Here’s the saw ready to go with a new blade.  I knocked the rust off the base but there’s not to much that can be done with it.  If I strip it down to bare metal it’ll just rust again.  If I paint it then it’ll just wear off. I also replaced the plug on the end of the cord.


Here’s another view of the saw.


I’ve used it to cut a couple boards and happy to report that it cuts well.  The only plastic in this thing are the brush caps and trigger switch.  I thought the handle was plastic at first but some sanding revealed it was Aluminum.  I’m sure all weight is an aid cutting downhill but I’d hate to cut overhead for too long with it.  Either way it happily chews through would without slowing down.  What more can you ask for?

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8 Responses to Rockwell Worm Drive Circular Saw: Part 2

  1. Charlie says:

    Great posts! I love that these old tools can be fixed up and given new life again. I’m sure this circular saw still has many more years of cutting ahead of it!

  2. Jim says:

    David and Steve, I have the same unit. Mine is a Model 568, Type 2. Mine works fine, used it today to rip some plywood. Powerful! – Packed with gunk also. Got this link from another site. There is a parts breakdown. Some parts are actually avalable.

    I’ve gone through three cheap skill type saws, but this one keeps on going!


    • Steven swickard says:

      Just picked one at garage sale 40 bucks 568 type 2 in almost perfect condition with therockwell original case and tools .Its a beast .Do you know the date of this?

  3. Martin Marquette says:

    I have the same saw, but it needs a new motor or else has an internal wiring problem as it won’t power up. Anyway, I started to disassemble and got stuck at removing the rear piece that houses the armature. The case rotates freely with the armature, but doesn’t want to come off. Does it just pull off the armature shaft or am I not seeing a retaining clip of some sort? Your pics and instructions didn’t show this.

    • davidjbod says:

      Best I recall, the end of the armature is pressed into a bearing which has been pressed into the case. Once the brushes have been pulled you should be able to carefully pry between the case halves to remove the armature.

      Good luck,

  4. John R. Broskley says:

    Hats off to you. Not many would embark on this feat. Good work. The Prazzi beam cutter bolts right to it in case you need to cut up to 12″ timbers. Only takes a minute to do.I got lucky. Mine came from a university and don’t think it was ever used.

  5. Tommy Quinn says:

    I have five of them, all red labels. I had a blue label like yours years ago but it got ripped off on a job. These are hands down the best worm drives ever made and I buy everyone I see.

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