Milwaukee Drill Right Angle Adapters

If you read my previous post on the Milwaukee Drill, I mentioned that models like it can be fitted with a right angle adapter.  My dad had a couple old ones laying around that he gave me to use on my drill before I realized they wouldn’t work on it.  Since I had them, I figured I’d clean them up for future use.  Here’s what they look like. They’re made up of four parts: the chuck, the right angle drive, a sleeve, and hex coupling that isn’t shown.  The right angle portion of it contains a 2:3 right angle gear than can be used to decease the bit speed by 33% and increase torque.  It can also be turned around to increase bit speed by 50% and decrease torque.  One of the right angle drive sections is broken and cannot be used unfortunately.  More on this in a bit.


The first step in cleaning them up is to remove the chucks.  Both of the chucks were stuck on pretty well.  The normal procedure of hitting the chuck key while holding the nut on the spindle didn’t work.  This Jacobs chuck, with the ribbed sides, could be operated enough to get the square drive of a long handled ratchet in.  This allowed me to generate enough torque to break the chuck loose from the spindle.


The second chuck is a Supreme Chuck.  Its jaws were stuck and could not be moved with the key. I took advantage of this and squeezed it in the vise to remove the chuck.  I also had to change wrenches to a GearWrench because it was a little bit thinner than the Craftsman wrench in the previous picture.  AA3

Finally, I was able to get both chucks off.  I messed with them for a little bit using some penetrant but they were both still stuck pretty badly.


I decided to let them soak in a 50:50 mixture of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) for a week.  People on the Internet and non-scientific tests say that this mixture works better then commercial penetrents such as PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench.  No, ATF is not Cherry flavored.  Yes, I know from personal experience.


This is a better picture of the broken right angle attachment.  The spindle is held in place by a ring that fits in a recess near the top of the edge.  As it is broken, the gears don’t mesh correctly.  So, it is junk.


After letting the chucks sit in the Acetone and ATF mixture for a week, I pulled them out and gave it a go again.  The Jacobs chuck moved a little better but the Supreme was still stuck.


I thought I’d give electrolysis a shot at it since it was probably rusted together.  I used a small plastic tub I had around .  It bubbled pretty heavily and the water got up to 120F.  So, I imagine there was a fair bit of current moving through the water.


While the chuck cleaned up nicely, it did nothing to loosen it up.  I put a bolt into the bottom of it and put it in the vise.  I threw everything I could think of to get it loose and finally succeeded when I used a pipe wrench.  I used a piece of rubber between the pipe wrench and chuck to keep from tearing up the surface.  I moved it slowly and tapped the jaws as well to get it to retract all the way.  I went the other way for a while to get the jaws to close.  After getting them raised enough, I tried to press the chuck apart but was unable to.  I went back to the pipe wrench but ended up breaking something inside the chuck.  At this point I threw in the towel and focused on the other chuck.


This is the Jacobs chuck after I cleaned it up from being submerged in the Acetone and ATF mixture.  Not much change cosmetically though it did move a little bit better.  Not good enough though.


I moved the jaws enough to be able to use the press on the chuck to take it apart.  If your platen, the metal disk with cutouts that is used with a press, doesn’t hold the chuck correctly then drill a 1-5/8″ hole in a piece of wood and press against it.  This hole is big enough to let the core of the chuck pass but holds the sleeve.  Here’s the chuck being pressed apart.  Once I had the outer sleeve off I tried to remove the jaws but they wouldn’t slip out easily like normal.  I ended up tapping them out with a pin punch.


This is what a Jacobs chuck looks like when taken apart.  This is actually the chuck from my Milwaukee drill instead of the one in this post because I forgot to get a picture of it in pieces.   For some reason, the jaws wouldn’t move in their holes like normal.  I saw a couple burrs and filed them down.  Still, they wouldn’t move freely.  It appeared that the holes had rusted reducing the diameter slightly. I finally decided to run an old 3/8″ drill bit in the holes where the jaws fit to act as a reamer.  The bit just rotates in the hole.  It doesn’t get moved in and out.  After this I cleaned the holes up by spinning a dowel in the holes with some polishing compound on it.  This allowed the jaws to slide better in the holes.  They still had a little more resistance than normal at some points but it was much better.


I figured while I had the chuck apart I’d clean it up some more by media blasting it.  I masked the insides off and shot it with my cheap media blaster gun and some Aluminum Oxide media.


Here’s how it turned out after oiling and reassembly.


The rest of the parts were wire wheeled.  As the non-broken right angle drive part is filled with grease I didn’t want to put it in the ultrasonic cleaner for fear of contaminating the grease.  I heavily oiled the chuck, wrapped it in a towel, and put it in a baggy until I can find a drill to use the adapter on.


Now just to find something to use the right angle adapter on.

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